Five Extraordinary Islands Off Ireland Not to be Missed

North America is usually the first port of call for a traveller moving west from Europe, but a visit to some of the overlooked little rocky outcrops along the west coast of Ireland should not be missed before leaving the Old World behind. Caught between the mainland and the Atlantic are a string of islands, inhabited and otherwise, that have enjoyed highly developed culture for many centuries, and offer the inquisitive traveller many a challenge. It is on these islands that the Irish language has most naturally been kept alive with no artificial help from government - the Islanders often speak Irish as their native language, not one only learned in school. Some of the most accessible are the following, but this list is far from exhaustive.

OILEAN TORAIGH (TORY ISLAND)

Starting in the north, Tory Island lies about12 kilometres off the coast of Donegal. Access is by a daily, year round ferry service although most tourists stick to the summer months. The island lies within the Gaeltacht (Irish speaking area), is about 3 km long and 1 km wide, and has a native population of around 130 people. Although an integral part of the Irish Republic, Tory Island still appoints its own King, though one without power of course.

Sites to see are the ruins of St Colmcille's monastery (6th century) and a round tower which was a defensive edifice intended to protect against Viking raids. There are other interesting fortifications to see, and the Tau Cross is said to be suggestive of early Egyptian Coptic Christianity, raising some interesting speculation about trading links, but it's perhaps a bit fanciful.

The island is rich in rare bird and plant life, and off the coast dolphins and whales can be spotted. For the tourist there is a hotel, hostel and Bed & Breakfast accommodation as well as bike and mini-bus hire. Remember though, this is Ireland, in the North Atlantic, and it is always windy!

OILEAN ACAILL (ACHILL ISLAND)

Achill is Ireland's largest Island, measuring about 20 km long and 19 km wide, and like Tory it lies in the Gaeltacht. Sitting close to the coast of County Mayo, Achill is linked to the mainland by a bridge, so is always accessible. The native population numbers about 3,000 people, but this increases significantly during the holiday season. Forts, ruined churches and deserted villages haunt the landscape, but perhaps one of the biggest attractions for Irish holiday-makers is the swimming. The island's beaches are clean, long and uncrowded, although local advice should be taken as to where is safe to swim and where is definitely not.

Spring and summer on Achill are the times for festivals. Traditional arts, crafts, music and food are regularly celebrated, and summer schools to learn traditional crafts and language are available as well as surfing schools. Achill is well equipped for tourism, but not in a brash holiday resort way. It maintains its traditional slow pace of life but has married it to modern comforts in a tasteful and unobtrusive way.

OILEAN INIS BO FINNE (INISHBOFIN ISLAND)

A year-round ferry service takes passengers from the village of Cleggan in County Galway to the island of Inishbofin which lies about 8 kilometres off shore. Inhabited for over 6,000 years, Inishbofin has long been a favourite haunt for fishermen, pirates on the run and exiled monks. Its name means “Island of the White Cow”, something to do with such a creature being sighted from under a blanket of fog that descended on the island centuries ago.

Defensive and monastic remains litter the place, but the big pull for people today is the vibrant traditional music scene and its festival during the summer. White sandy beaches which offer good swimming and surfing and rich bird and plant life are great attractions too. In recent years Inishbofin has become a breeding ground for the rare corncrake and there are also a few seal colonies on the rocks.

DAIRBHRE (VALENTIA ISLAND)

Valentia Island is a bit of an enigma as far as Irish islands are concerned. Its position in relation to the Gulf Stream makes for a balmier climate than is usual in Ireland, and its vegetation is uncharacteristically lush and colourful, even sub-tropical in places. So why do only 600 people live there?!?

However these 600 people were certainly not the first inhabitants of Valentia, nor were their human forebears. Tetra pod footprints have been found in the north of the island dating back to between 350 and 370 million years. The island (11x3 kilometres) like Achill is joined to the mainland by a bridge, but also by a car ferry, and in 1858 became the eastern terminal for the Atlantic telegraph linking Europe to Newfoundland.

The atmosphere of Valentia is rather stately and refined, and furnished the slate for the roof of London's House of Commons. This is Europe's most westerly inhabited island.

NA BLASCAODAI (GREAT BLASKET ISLAND)

This one is no longer inhabited, the last of its people having departed in 1953. However there are still ferry services to take visitors across the sea from County Kerry. The visitors come for a variety of reasons, mostly for walking, fishing and bird watching, but there are all the usual pre-historic remains to be inspected and the White Strand to swim at. The biggest drawback to being uninhabited is of course the lack of facilities on the island, and whatever you are going to need you need to bring with you. Still, the island is well worth the visit, even if it can be a bit eerie walking around the ruins of an evacuated civilisation.

And there are more. No room here to mention Dursey Island, the Aran Islands or Rathlin, which unlike all the others lies off Northern Ireland and so is British.