Traveling by Tuk-tuk in Laos

One thing that there's definitely no shortage of in Vientiane and Luang Prabang are tuk-tuks plying the streets. You can't walk down the street (at least in Vientiane) without a tuk-tuk driver inquiring where you are going and if you want a tuk-tuk.

If you have already been to Thailand you know all about tuk-tuks (called tuk-tuks because of the sound they make, or so I have been told) and that they are a cheap form of transportation for short distances, not to mention a practical mode of transportation for weaving in and out of Bangkok's notorious traffic gridlock.

In Laos, it's a different story though when it comes to taking a tuk-tuk. First of all, unless you have to go somewhere far-like the bus station or airport-in Vientiane or Luang Prabang you don't really need to take a tuk-tuk and you are better off walking or renting a bicycle (or motorcycle). Most places in Vientiane (and to a lesser degree Luang Prabang) can easily be reached on foot.

Lao tuk-tuks are generally of the Phnom Penh style (I had no idea that tuk-tuks had different styles). They come as tuk-tuks or Jumbo tuk-tuks. Jumbos have a larger 3 or 4 cylinder 4 stroke engine, many are powered by Daihatsu engines. While the smaller tuk-tuks carry similar loads to Cambodian tuk-tuks, and are geared similarly. The Jumbos' larger engine and cabin size allow for greater loads (up to 12 seated people at a squeeze) and higher top speeds. Jumbos are almost without exception only found in Vientiane. A few Thai tuk-tuks (ones with a fully enclosed cabin) have also made their way to Vientiane.

(Phnom Penh tuk-tuks are one piece-the front end of a motorcycle comprising of steering, tank and engine/gearbox with a covered tray mounted at the back. The power is transferred by chain to an axle mounted to the modified rear fork which drives the two rear wheels. Suspended upon the rear fork is an open cabin with an in-line seat on each side. This arrangement can carry 6 people at ease, with their luggage in the leg space.)

Most of the tuk-tuks you see on the streets in Vientiane and Luang Prabang are the smaller ones; the larger ones are found around markets and the bus stations.

If you are not in the mood for a lot of walking you can hire a tuk-tuk for the day (the drivers have a price list for the fares to all the major attractions in Vientiane.) The fares are a little pricey, though. For example, the fare from Patouxai to That Louang was 50,000 Kip. Unless you really want to be taxied around Vientiane be ready to shell out anywhere from 100,000 to 150,000 Kip. If you are lucky though, you might come across a tuk-tuk driver who will give you a good rate for a few hours. Last year my wife On and I found such a driver who only charged us 100,000 Kip to go to Buddha Park (23 kilometers outside of Vientiane) and would have taken us all around Vientiane to all the major sites for the same price. It pays (pun intended) to shop around when it comes to hiring a tuk-tuk for the day.

However, for those farther distances you have to rely on a tuk-tuk to get them. And when it comes time to take a tuk-tuk you have to be careful with how much the driver tries to charge you. For example, when we wanted to go to the bus station from the Inter City Hotel, the tuk-tuk driver said it would cost 80,000 Kip when it normally costs 50,000 Kip. Also, if you are in Vientiane, the tuk-tuk drivers that ply Fa Ngum Road (the road that runs parallel to the Mekong River) tend to ask for more than if you catch a tuk-tuk on a side street. Generally, if it's a place where large groups of tourists tend to gather or pass by then the fares will reflect that.

Now, I know what you are thinking-what's twenty or thirty thousand Kip for a tuk-tuk especially when you have just traveled halfway around the world to Laos, right? After all, that extra Kip you shell out for a tuk-tuk is probably not going to make too much of a dent in your budget but it could make a big difference for the driver.

On the other hand, I think some tuk-tuk drivers start off quoting a hire fare to see what you will do, if you are in the mood for a little haggling or if you simply don't mind paying a little extra. It's all part of the travel experience and if you do pay a little more the next time you might get a better deal.

Still there are some tuk-tuk drivers who give the whole tuk-tuk driving business a bad name and those that you have to watch out for-like the one who took On and I back to the Inter City Hotel in a jumbo tuk-tuk after we had come back from Luang Prabang. This tuk-tuk driver was definitely a hustler and almost got into a fight with another tuk-tuk driver over some passengers.

We had just gotten off the bus and were looking for a smaller tuk-tuk when this driver came up to us, grabbed my suitcase and asked where we were going. On had no sooner answered Inter City Hotel when the driver tossed my suitcase into the back of the jumbo tuk-tuk and went to round up some other unsuspecting passengers. Within a few minutes the tuk-tuk was full, but the driver wanted a few more fares and tried to steal a "fare" from a rival tuk-tuk driver.

At this point we hadn't even talked about the fare. On and I were thinking that it would be 40,000 Kip. At least that is what we thought. Fortunately the driver got our destination right and we were the first passengers to be dropped off and it turned out that the fare-40,000 Kip-was about right; however, the tuk-tuk driver said he had no change and made another 10,000 Kip because On only had a 50,000 Kip bill to pay him.

If you do want to take a tuk-tuk when you are in Vientiane or Luang Prabang be prepared to haggle a little. If you do end up paying a little more when you think you should have paid less, just think of it as part of the travel adventure you are on in Laos.