Crochet in the Round without using a Pattern

Whether making a cap or a doily or anything else in the round, there is a way to understand what you're doing so you don't have to slavishly follow a pattern. The pattern is a mathematical progression that will make it easy to create your own round crocheted objects.

Round 1 (round zero and 1)

There are two perfectly good ways to begin a round object. You can make a chain (three or four is good), connect with a slip stitch in the first chain and make an empty circle (round zero). Chain two to be the first stitch in the circle and double crochet (single is fine too, this example will use double) 7 more stitches over the chained circle for a total of 8 stitches. Join with a slip stitch in the second chain. (Round 1) [I don't use this method anymore, but it works.]

Alternately, chain 3 and double crochet in the first chain (third from the hook). Double crochet 6 more in that first chain for a total of 8 stitches. Join in the 3rd chain with a slip stitch. Just be sure the slip knot you made to start your chain is tight. (Round 1)

Think: ONE

Round 2: Two stitches in each stitch
Whether you do single or double crochet, the second round uses two stitches in each stitch of the first round. You will end up with 16 stitches.

Think: One and TWO

Round 3: One stitch in first stitch, two stitches in the next

Here is where it gets interesting. In the third round you need to have three stitches for every one stitch there was in the first round. To do this, notice that the second round had two stitches, so in this round you will add only one stitch for every two in the last round. When you crochet this round count to three: "One"; in the first stitch, "Two" in the second stitch, and then "Three" also in the second stitch. Just keep counting to three in this way all the way around.

In other words, when you get to the stitch-number that is the same as the row you’re on (3 in this case), crochet in the same stitch as the last one.

Think: One, Two and THREE

Row 4: one stitch in the first ("one"), one stitch in the second ("two"), two stitches in the third stitch ("three AND FOUR")

Row 5: one stitch in the first ("one"), one stitch in the second ("two"), one stitch in the third stitch ("three"), two stitches in the fourth stitch ("four AND FIVE")

By following this method, you can keep a round object flat as long as you know which row you're on. Just remember, when you get to the stitch-number of the row you’re on, crochet in the same stitch as the last.  So in row ten, do one stitch in the first 8 stitches, then do both nine and ten in the ninth stitch.

Note:

A chain stitch can be used as the second stitch in the increasing stitch if you want an open pattern.

To make a cap continue this method for the crown, staying flat until the diameter looks right for your head size, then the next row, and all subsequent rows will be one stitch in each stitch to make the sides of the cap, forcing it to cup.

If your piece starts to ruffle, you have too many stitches. You may be able to correct it if you don't increase in the next round (or increase less often). If you really don't want to pull it all out, you could also switch to a smaller hook.

If your piece starts to cup, you have too few stitches. You may be able to correct it in the next round by increasing more often, or switch to a larger hook.

There's nothing wrong with pulling out a row and starting it over. We all do it.