Getting "high" in Busan

When it comes to enjoying some of Korea's natural beauty, there's perhaps no better way than getting out and exploring many of its majestic, rugged peaks up and down the peninsula which offer some of the more breathtaking and exhilarating outings for serious mountaineers and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

To be sure, no matter where one travels in Korea to seek a mountain adventure-whether it's for a day or longer-there are plenty of peaks to scale and foothills to hike around for a truly "natural high.'' While some of the more popular mountain getaways like Mt. Sorak, Mt. Chiri and Mt. Halla on Cheju Island get all the attention, lesser peaks are equally magnificent and alluring even those just a short distance from busy cities like Seoul and Busan (Pusan).

Not to be overshadowed by some of Korea's more famous natural wonders, Mt. Kumchong in Busan is one of those equally magnificent and alluring mountain destinations. Famous for some of its more beautiful nature scenes in the Busan area, the mountain also holds valuable cultural assets including Kumchong Fortress and Pomo-sa Temple.

Perched high on the ridges of Mt. Kumchong (790 meters/2,590 feet) and Mt. Sanghak (638 meters/2,093 feet) in northwest Busan (and offering spectacular views of the surrounding area), construction on the fortress began in 1703 and was completed in 1807. With a height of 1.5-6 meters and an original length of 17 kilometers, the fortress was once the largest fortress in Korea. While only four kilometers of its wall remains today, the wall, which was rebuilt in 1970 and its two gates to the east and west are listed as Historic Site No. 215.

With numerous trails leading to entrances to the fortress and the summit, those looking for a more rugged and invigorating climb to the top of the summit might want to try the hiking course which starts from the left of Pomo-sa Temple and continues up the rugged side of the mountain to Pukmun (North Gate). This course, which can take a little over an hour to reach gate, is strewn with boulders and rocks of various sizes for a bit of strenuous rock climbing. However, the course also has a few sections of steps for hikers to catch their breath (not to mention rest their weary legs) before proceeding to the summit.

On the other hand, if you are looking for a more leisurely and less strenuous hike along the ridges, the East Gate, which is accessible by bus No. 77 from Onchonjang Subway Station is the quickest way to reach the summit and the least exhausting. From there, it's only a four-kilometer hike to the North Gate, which offers hikers some of the more scenic views found in the Busan area.

Weather permitting the views from the top of the fortress and along the ridges are breathtaking no matter what the season. Nothing beats a day in Mt. Kumchong by taking a break and stretching out on some of the craggy rock formations at the top of the summit for an awe-inspiring panoramic view of the fortress and Busan in the distance.

Much of the course between the East Gate and the North Gate is easily traversed along this well-laid out course with only a few arduous climbs over some of the more difficult terrain. One of the more noticeable features of the fortress are the rock formations called "tors,'' which jut up from the slopes. These tors which are a jumbled mass of fracture-bounded granite blocks abruptly exposed along the ridges of the summit are what give the mountain its fortress or castle-like features. Formed during the interglacial and glacial eras, there are 50 prominent tors along the ridges and summit of Mt. Kumchong. Of these, Kodambang is one of the more famous granite tors at the top of the summit and the subject of countless photographs.

Although the fortress might not have some of the more rugged hiking courses found in other provincial parks or mountains, it still offers outdoor enthusiasts a chance to experience a bit of Korea's unique "mountain culture." Away from the noise and traffic of Korea's urban sprawl, this mountain culture manifests itself in many forms: from the friendly greetings and offers of food from other hikers to numerous vendors providing refreshments and bowls of instant noodles for a quick snack along the way. There's something special and refreshing when one explores Korea's rugged and natural beauty, not to mention the shared experience with other outdoor enthusiasts

Depending how much time one allots for hiking in the fortress, it's also possible to combine a day at Mt. Kumchong with a visit to other attractions and cultural sites in the area. Most impressive is Pomo-sa Temple, which was built in 678 during the Silla Kingdom. Situated halfway up Mt. Kumchong, the temple is considered one of the Korea's five great temples and designated Historic Site No. 176. Inside the temple, there are a number of cultural assets, including a three storied stone pagoda designated as National Treasure No.250, Taeungjon Hall designated as National Treasure No. 434, as well as Iljumun Gate (front gate), and Tanganjiju (two pillars supporting a pole with a large Buddhist painting).

If you are looking for a truly memorable experience while visiting or living in Busan, there is perhaps no better way to spend a day than hiking in Mt. Kumchong. With its magnificent views and rugged, natural beauty it's the perfect complement to one's sojourn in Busan.

How to Get There

To reach the temple walk out of the subway station exit No. 5 and take to the first road on your right to a small bus terminal just one block west and catch bus No. 90. Buses run approximately every 10 minutes.

For those with more time to spend in the area, Kumgang Park located at the southern edge of the fortress features a Buddhist temple, an aquarium, a zoo, a folk art exhibition hall, botanical gardens, pavilions, restaurants and a children's playground. There is even a cable car, which runs to the mountaintop from the park below this walled mountain fortress to the South Gate. From here one can continue along the fortress wall to the East Gate and the North Gate.

Also nearby is Tongnae Hot Springs, located 14km northeast of Pusan Station. First developed in 1691, during the reign of Choson Dynasty's 19th King Sukjong, the spa's long history has made it one of the most convenient areas for visitors to Pusan with comfortable accommodations and accessible cultural attractions in the area. It's a great way to finish up your outing at Mt. Kumchong with a nice relaxing dip in the spa to soothe all those aching muscles.