How to Save Pumpkin Seeds: Squash, Gourds & More

Copyright © 2010 Cherie Kuranko ~ "InkSpot"

All Rights Reserved.

Most people don't realize it, but a pumpkin is actually a squash. The squash family includes summer squash, winter squash and pumpkins. Many times pumpkins are commonly referred to or broken down by their use; jack-o-lanterns for carving, smaller sugar pumpkins for pies and field pumpkins, which are also used for pies, carving or feeding livestock. All of these pumpkins are squashes and all squashes belong to the Cucurbitaceae family.  

The Cucurbitaceae family includes squashes (pumpkins), gourds, watermelon and cucumbers to name a few. Howden pumpkins, sugar pie pumpkins, jack-o-lanterns, Jack Be Little pumpkins, crooked neck squash, scallop, patty pan, acorn, butternut, gourds, serpent gourd, hubbard squash, cushaw squash, balsam pear, balsam apple, luffa, cassabanana, chayote and more all belong to the Cucurbitaceae family.

 Breaking it down further, squash belong to the genus Cucurbita and one of six different species as follows:

• Cucurbita maxima
• Cucurbita moschata
• Cucurbita mixta
• Cucurbita pepo
• Cucurbita ficifolia
• Cucurbita foetidissima

So, for a pumpkin, or rather squash, the family and genus is the same; with Cucurbitaceae as the family and Cucurbita as the genus. The species; either maxima, moschata, mixta, pepo, ficifolia and foetidissima play an important role when planning and choosing squash seeds for seed saving. Within each of these species are hundreds, if not thousands, of varieties of squash.

When planning to grow pumpkins, or any squash, for seed saving it is very important to choose either one variety or if growing more than one kind of squash/pumpkin you must choose from different species to avoid cross-pollination. To do this is rather simple once you've learned how.

All that is necessary is to identify the genus and species on the seed package or in the seed catalog. Even though the genus name is the same, if you choose a different species for each you can successfully grow squashes/pumpkins side by side without any worry of cross-pollination occurring. This leaves the possibility of growing six different varieties of squash at one time for seed saving.

For example, a gardener could grow the following for seed saving in the same garden; at the same time. These varieties won't cross with each other--keeping your seeds from these should produce the same original varieties you planted come the following year.

• Cucurbita maxima:  Rouge Vif d'Etampes or "Cinderella Pumpkin"
• Cucurbita moschata:  Long Island Cheese squash (looks like a light colored pumpkin)
• Cucurbita mixta:  Big White Crookneck squash
• Cucurbita pepo:  Howden Pumpkin (common field pumpkin, often used for carving or pies)
• Cucurbita ficifolia:  Malabar Gourd or "Chilacayote"
• Cucurbita foetidissima:  Calabazilla or "Buffalo Gourd"

If you were to try growing squash of the same species together they would cross and not produce true seed. For example:

• Cucurbita maxima: Rouge Vif d'Etampes or "Cinderella Pumpkin"
• Cucurbita maxima: Buttercup squash
• Cucurbita maxima: Hubbard Squash
• Cucurbita pepo: Spaghetti Squash or Zucchini

In this example, all the Cucurbita maxima squash/pumpkins would cross with each other because they all belong to the maxima species. However, they won't cross with the pepo species (spaghetti squash and zucchini). To solve the problem, simply eliminate two of your maxima varieties. The maxima and pepo species can be grown together.

When choosing any seed for seed saving projects always use heirloom or open-pollinated (OP) seeds only. If it isn't listed, call the company and ask. This a whole another topic about seed saving, but for now if you follow the simple heirloom or OP seed only rule you can save seeds from your pumpkin patch without complications. Another suggestion is to find out what your neighbor is growing. Squash, and remember pumpkins are squashes, can cross-pollinate just as easily over the fenceline as they can within your own garden. In fact, squash can cross-pollinate with other squash plants located within a half mile of your garden.

If you are growing your pumpkins for eating, carving or other uses and don't care to save the seed, then cross-pollination isn't a concern. You could wind up with some wonderful zucchini-pumpkin cross bread from one crossed vegetable. 

For seed saving however, you can't allow cross-pollination or you won't have true seed from the variety of pumpkin you wish to save--instead you will have a crossed pumpkin when you try to grow out your saved seed the following year.

Squash produce seed annually in all of these species. When planting your seeds, it is best to space your plants 36-48 inches apart. They average about 4-7 days to germinate. For seed saving you need at least 5 to 10 plants to harvest from. It is beneficial to plant 15 plants to be sure you have enough survivors and a good gene pool selection for seed saving.

Squash plants are pollinated by insects and each plant grows male and female flowers. For beginners, it is easy to identify the female from the male flowers. Female flowers appear at the end of the tiny squashes and the male flowers emerge from long, straight stems. Insects will then pollinate these flowers, which by the way are edible (Recipe here), but you won't get any squash or its seeds if you keep eating all the blooms.

Harvesting of your squash seed occurs in late fall and generally after the first frost. Squash should be allowed to fully mature. Start by cutting the squash from the vine. Leave a small stem for easier handling. Then store the squash in a cool, dry location (a garage or basement is fine) for at least three weeks. You will get more viable seed from squash left to sit for a while. Summer squash usually won't keep more than a month, but winter squashes are often stored 3-6 months or more. To get the most out of your squash, just save the seed as you eat them. Many people harvest all the seed at once and can the squash or pumpkin to be used throughout the year.

Cut open your squash and collect all the seeds you find in a large bowl. If the squash skins are tough, you can use an ax or shovel to split them open. Place the seeds in a colander and rinse them off under the kitchen faucet. You can gently rub them together or against the side of the colander to help remove all bits of the flesh or other debris. Drain for a few minutes. Then turn the seeds out onto a towel and pat dry.

When drying your seeds you should place them on a metal cookie sheet, glass or plastic pan in a single layer. Do not place them on paper products or removing them later can be a problem. Place them in a dry location away from direct heat or sunlight and let them dry.

You will know they are ready for storage when you can take a seed, bend it in half and it breaks. If the seed just bends without breaking, it still has too much moisture. Let your seeds dry longer and keep checking. When the seeds are completely dry you should store them in a cool, dark, dry area.  Learn more about how to store seeds properly.

Discover how long your squash or pumpkin seeds will last. This article includes a guide to the seed life of over 47 of the most common vegetables grown in gardens.

OTHER SEED SAVING AND GARDENING ARTICLES

Start Your Own Seed Bank

How to Grow, Harvest & Save Lettuce Seed

Winter Carrots get Sweeter with Time

How to Grow, Harvest & Save Onion Seed

How to Grow Sweet Potato Slips or Starts

My Garden,Tools & Seed Shack Blog

Also, Check Out:  Natural and Green Household Product Article & Links

Copyright © 2010 Cherie Kuranko ~ "InkSpot"

All Rights Reserved.