Footwears of Rajasthan"the Mojari'

India has a very long tradition of leather crafts ranging from handbags, leather stools to Mojaris, Kolhapuris and Jootis centered at Rajasthan, Karnataka & Punjab. The production of these heavily embroidered juttis date back to the period of Kings and queens. In those times, these juttis were embroidered with real gold and silver threads and decorated with precious gems and pearls. But, with the passage of time, these were replaced by artificial materials, beads, bells etc, in order to make them affordable for everyone.

Mojari which is a closed shoe with an extended curled toe having an open look from behind - is sure to enchant all. The regular Mojari is either pointed or rounded. The different varieties of Mojaris available are gol-panja or Round Toe, salem shahi (Pointed Toe) and chota-panja (Small Toe).

The production of the heavily traditional embroidered mojaris dates back to the royal era of Kings and Queens. During those days mojaris were embroidered with real gold and silver threads, and were embellished with valuable pearls and gems. But with changing times and fashion, artificial materials, beads, bells etc soon took over and Mojaries are now being made of cow, buffalo, or camel leather soles. The upper part of the mojaris is made up of leather or simply textile. Both the parts are pasted together and are stitched by white cotton threads. Mojaris are then embellished with brass nails, mirrors, cowries’ shells, bells and ceramic beads.  These juttis & mojaries are made of buffalo, cow or camel leather soles, while the upper part comprises of leather or simply textile. Both the parts are joined together by a paste and then stitched by white cotton threads. The mojari is tanned with vegetable dye and has excellent thermal insulation quality.

 The process of production starts with cutting the leather with a sharp knife both for the upper and the sole. Stuck together with homemade glue, they are stitched with cotton or leather thread.

 The process followed is for different layers of the sole to be stuck with home-made glue. Once this is dry, the sole is stitched with cotton or leather thread. The upper portion is then embroidered by women who are very skilled at this. Plain or coloured piping is stitched to the edge of the inside portion of the upper form after the leather is dipped in water to make it soft. At every stage the leather is hammered to make the stitching and the pasting firm.

When the upper form has been attached to the sole it is put on a wooden last to give it a final shape";" local dyes are sometimes sprayed on the upper in shades of red, green, and dark pink. Simple tools like a needle, a knife, a wooden block, and a hammer, are used. There is a thin strip of leather attached to the front edge of the sole, curling around the toe and joining the upper form, which protects the toe. On the back portion, a strip of leather stands out by an inch to enable the wearer to pull on the jooti. The stitching on the sole is always done with several strands of cotton thread. The simplest form of the jooti has a plain leather upper form, stitched to a plain sole. There is no difference between the right and the left foot and the jooti takes the shape of the wearer's foot.

The ornamentation is with silk or metal embroidery or beads and the designs are done in appliqu? with thin leather pieces of different colours. This work is called as kashidakari. Jootis are also dyed in various colours and have brass eyelets adorning them. The soles have designs or patterns stitched with thread or appliqu?d with small leather pieces of different shapes. Jaipur is the main centre for this craft and the mojris are made so daintily that they can be rolled into a little ball. The designs are delicate and the colours are subtle. The embroidery in Jodhpur has patterns which has bolder shades and interesting contrasts. Peshawari is the most common type of jooti: this is a heavy variety used by both men and women. A lighter Peshawari jooti without embroidery is made for children.

Nagra jootis are made and sold in towns. They are the lighter variety and consist of one or two layers of leather for the sole and are embroidered with Mughal motifs in gold (and brightly coloured) threads.

Some traditional embroidered mojaris are made with bright and ornate threads for beautification. The design can range from a complicated appliqué involving embroidery, punches, weaves to a simple cut out shape from any material like leather or textile. Slip-on jooties, sandals and slippers are some of the updated and modernized versions of Mojaris. Dictated by technological improvement, cost effectiveness and market demand, non leather is now, being used for Mojaris production. The Mojaris are also done on customized basis to meet the requirement of the fashion houses. 

These shoes were flat soled and there were no left-right distinction. 

The traditional skills when combined with contemporary colors and designs create nothing but sheer magic and this is best reflected in Indian traditional embroidered mojaris. In a nutshell Indian Mojaris are all set to give a royal look to the wearer. Produced mainly in Jaipur and Jodhpur, cities of Rajasthan, these Mojaris are sure to enchant you and provide that royal touch to your attire.

So,I welcome you in my state to get a glimpse of Royal forts,attire, and customs.