A Brief Whiff of Perfume History

Perfume dates back hundreds of years however perfume didn’t gain in popularity in France until the sixteenth century when perfumed gloves became popular after Catherine of Medici married Henry II, the future king of France. Her parfumer, René le Florentin, was well known for his perfumed gloves. Once Paris discovered perfume, there was no going back. The Makers of Gloves and Perfumes (Maitres Gantiers et Parfumeurs) was established in 1656 and lasted until the French Revolution in1789.

Louis XV’s court was also known as the “perfumed court” because of the fragrances that where liberally applied to skin, furniture, fans, and clothing.

Perfume making advanced with the introduction of eau de Cologne in the eighteenth century. Eau de Cologne was a blend of rosemary, lemon, neroli, and bergamot that could be used in a variety of ways including as a fragrant addition to bath water, mouthwash, and enemas. In addition to the wide variety of uses, the containers included sponges in gilded metal vinaigrettes and extravagant glass bottles. Post-French Revolution Frenchmen (and women) dared to indulge in luxurious goods, including perfume.

Paris soon became the center of the world’s perfume trade with perfume houses such as Houbigant, Quelques Fleurs, Lubin, Roger and Gallet, and Guerlain calling Paris their home.

The industrial revolution changed the world including the growing perfume industry. Modern chemistry created new fragrances and a new demand for perfume. Along with advances in chemistry, bottling became an integral part of the perfume industry.

While Paris became a commercial hub, the true capitol of perfume belongs to Grasse, France on the French Riviera. This is where the basic floral ingredients were grown including jasmine, roses, lavender, mimosa, and irises along with numerous aromatic plants loaded with essential oils. Today, over two thousand people work in the perfume industry serving up 50% of the French market for perfumes and food fragrances and about 6% of the world market. While Grasse has a rich history of supplying floral scents, the trade has shifted to essences. Ironically, most flowers and spices are now imported as needed.

Grasse is home to the Musée International de la Parfumerie, an international museum of perfume. The museum covers the process of perfume manufacturing as well as three thousand years of the perfume industry´s history. The museum also features Marie Antoinette´s travel case as well as a greenhouse loaded with fragrant flowers and plants.

Today French perfume manufacturers include Albin du Roy, Cacharel, Carla, Caron, Chanel, Cléry, Detaille, Dior Parfums, Lancôme, Luce Parfums, Guerlain, Orlane, Parfum d´image, Parfumerie Galimard, Parfumeries Fragonard, Parfumeries Molinard, Rayon d´Or, Zica Alexa and many more.

France’s oldest perfume house is Guerlain maker of Shalimar, Mitsouko, Vol de Nuit, L’Eau impérial, and L’Heure bleue. From 1828 to the present day, Guerlain has had five generations of expert perfumers creating classic fragrances that exemplify French perfume.

French perfume and the various manufacturing techniques and styles date back many centuries from the days of Henry II to today. The French perfume industry supports thousands of jobs and accounts for a huge piece of the world’s perfume exports. Hundreds of new fragrances are launched annually, usually toward the end of the year to take advantage of Christmas sales. Despite its luxurious nature that it is both frivolous and fleeting at the same time, perfume continues to be a mainstay product.